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 jyrki
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 Finally got all the parts
To build a new engine for my Dart. It's going to be a little tricky one, but I have no idea wether it will make power or not. It will be a '464', but a little bigger '464' than the previous engine A lot of the parts is from the old engine but there will be a new block, pistons and cam and several modifications to the old parts. Like I said, I have no idea if the parts will actually work together but I think I'll get the engine together late next week. Then it's time to go to Dyno to find out the numbers! |
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22.03.2001 at 12:10 |
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partel
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 Finally got all the parts
Yeah, maybe it will only put out like 670 hp.. good for cranking the A/C 
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22.03.2001 at 12:59 |
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partel
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Finally got all the parts
Just jokin' here!
Anyway, glad that you are posting here. Should do that more, though!
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22.03.2001 at 13:06 |
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peep
Moderator |
Finally got all the parts
jyrki: how did you ship this stuff to your place. I'm still looking for reasonable way how to get things from States. Just recently UPS quoted $835 for 80 lbs. |
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25.03.2001 at 23:53 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
I used DFDS transport this time. I got maybe 200 lbs for that money. UPS is expensive but quick if needed. There are a lot of less expensive places than the DFDS, but I got it for a little less through my brothers firm; they're using DFDS.
Well, it's a weekend behind and the things didn't quite go like in the movies.
I started on friday evening arranging things, then I cleaned the block and the crank. Installed the bearings and the crank and the crank will not rotate!
First I think it might hit the cam, but that was not the reason; one counterweight hit the block. Back to pieces again; Some grinding in the block, washing the parts again and back together. Crank spins fine.
Next is the camshaft timing; it's a bit tricky with the fixed idler gear drive since there are no timing marks. You start by installing a piston & rod in to some cylinder, then you put it to TDC and install lifters in to the 'opposite' cylinder, in this case #1 & #6. Then rotate the cam to the overlap period with both lifters raised about the same amount and install the gear drive. After that you start measuring; first the accurate TDC for the degree wheel and then for the full lift for the intake lifter. It should have been in 102 degrees but was at 114, so some adjustments and it was at 100.
At this point I installed two valves in to one head with light check springs and installed the head and pushrods&rockers. Turn the crank around and the exhaust valve clears just fine, when the piston is at TDC it stops. Intake valve is hitting the piston.
Take the head off, put some modeling clay on to the piston top and repeat so that you can see where it actually hits. The valve reliefs are too low, and a lot too low.
Back apart again; had to machine the reliefs 3mm deeper, this will also lower the CR slightly I guess to around 11:1.
Finally I got the short block together and the heads ported & assembled, so it's pretty basic bolt on from now on except the pushrods which have to be cut to the proper length after I get the heads on to the block.
I guess that the engine is ready late this week if there are no more drawbacks.
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26.03.2001 at 09:00 |
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partel
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Finally got all the parts
quote:
jyrki wrote:
...this will also lower the CR slightly I guess to around 11:1.
How much timing will you use?
What fuel? Any octane booster?
Here the 95 is s#it, but 98 is quite good, and that is what US hi-po car people use anyway.
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26.03.2001 at 09:15 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
30-34 degrees total, I guess. 98 unleaded with no additivies should work fine. |
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26.03.2001 at 09:26 |
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partel
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 Finally got all the parts
Well, I guess now it's a proper time to discuss engine break-in procedures.
For me, I am most interested in eng pre-lub and cam related stuff.
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26.03.2001 at 09:52 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
he break in in this case will be done at the dyno. With a roller cam, moly rings and a smooth hone job there is actually no need for much break in. Basically just firing it up and running it warm. Then setting the valve lashes and about 20 minutes running at various rpms and various loads. Then it's full throttle! I'm going to prelube the engine first at home rotating the oil pump (six years old!) with a hand drill to fill the filter and the passages.
With a flat tappet cam you have to break in the cam; first you must use moly grease on the lobes during the assembly. It's a good idea to go through the lifter bores with a brake hone so that there are no knicks that will prevent the lifters from rotating freely. Then, you should operate the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for about 20 minutes; this is to supply enough oil to the upstairs and for the cam. After that you must change the oil and the filter because the moly grease tends to block it. It's a good idea also to use looser break in springs with a high lift flat tappet that must be changed after the break in. If using double springs, simply break the cam in using only the outer springs.
With regular rings and hone job the ring seating takes longer but can be handled in a couple of hours in the dyno including the needed cool down periods. |
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26.03.2001 at 10:51 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
Peep, the total freight including the taxes was 2800 FIM and there was about 100 kg of parts, over 1 m3 |
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26.03.2001 at 11:05 |
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partel
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Finally got all the parts
Do you bolt on the tranny first and then lower the eng+tranny in the car? |
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26.03.2001 at 11:17 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
No, the trans is in the car. Because of the oil pan and K-member clearance I can't install or remove them as a package.
I also attached the new scoop to the hood, if nothing else it blocks the visibility pretty well! It's a GM cowl induction scoop that is about 6" high. |
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26.03.2001 at 11:28 |
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partel
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Finally got all the parts
quote:
jyrki wrote:
I also attached the new scoop to the hood, if nothing else it blocks the visibility pretty well! It's a GM cowl induction scoop that is about 6" high.
I hope it's of some use! |
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26.03.2001 at 12:01 |
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partel
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Finally got all the parts
Anyway, I am sure I will screw up my first engine assembly. So I will sure get a "dummy" of my "favorite" politician and a BIG sledge!  |
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26.03.2001 at 12:03 |
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jyrki
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Finally got all the parts
Yesterday I built a stand for the engine and fired it up. Run it about 10 minutes to warm it up. Some leaks, but propably only external; all but one of them are easy to fix. The leaks are very small and shouldn'tprevent the Dyno session on 16.4. |
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02.04.2001 at 07:52 |
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